If you wanted a glimmer of light for restaurants right now, here’s one: it’s been heartening to see the way so many businesses have adapted and emerged offering something even more fascinating, more exciting. Right in the teeth of the gale they are re-energised, refocused. Take a look at the pared-back beauty of the new Read More
Mattancherry stands out on Canton’s lovably scuffed drag. I’m unsure what the technical term for the dominant blue here is- cerulean perhaps?- but it’s the bike mounted above the door which draws the eye. Inside it’s all weathered desks on wooden floorboards, metal chairs, Bollywood Film posters. It will be a familiar look to many. Read More
So Good, opposite Mina and Pim’s on Crwys Road in Cardiff, isn’t your run of the mill Cantonese adapted to undemanding British tastes. The spicing is bolder, the menu clearly with an eye on the Chinese diners who make up the rest of the guests when I visit. The fallback term for this food is Read More
The language of offal is peculiar. Gutsy, hearty, plucky, ballsy: we assign moral qualities to offal, positive ones. Eating the stuff, though? That’s much more divisive. Even inveterate meat eaters might greet the phrase ‘edible viscera’ with the same glee you’d reserve for ‘New on Channel 5- Celebrity Air Traffic Controllers with Joey Essex!’ Many Read More
Disclosure: I didn’t pay for either of my visits here. The first was at their launch event, when I went as another blogger’s guest; the second was at a friend’s invitation. The Coconut Tree didn’t know who I was, although you may argue that our ‘invitees only’ table at the opening night would presumably guarantee Read More
Look deep into the Parka… There are many things in here, things you could never dream of. – Like what? – Rubies. -l’ve dreamed of rubies. …Lesbian ham..? [The Mighty Boosh, ‘Tundra’] There are some words which don’t belong together. Or at least, not until someone welds them together in some inspired culinary cut-and-shut and Read More
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