Tom’s (or ‘Tom’s Smashed Burgers and Dirty Fries’) is a fascinating proposition. They say it’s a sign of ageing when policemen seem too young. Brace yourselves for a sense of imminent decrepitude, then, because the eponymous Tomos is 18. And while you’re wondering whether you could rattle off that phrase after your third Negroni, it Read More
Perhaps this is less a review than a reminder. After all, Bar 44’s reputation is increasingly well known across Britain, let alone Cardiff, so unless you’ve been living in a bunker (or Bridgend) you probably already know. We are here for the new lunch deal, which runs on Thursday and Friday in Westgate St, and Read More
I’m not in a good mood by the time I arrive at Hiraeth Kitchen. Any balm dispensed by the bus ride from Cardiff- a timely reminder of just how beautiful the Vale can be- is lost when I try to find a taxi from Cowbridge. Apparently the Gordian knot, Fermat’s Last Theorem and the continuing Read More
Have you been to The Humble Onion recently? You should. Two visits in the last fortnight have confirmed what has been obvious for a few years now. Namely, that Antonio Simone’s cooking is a true local highlight and deserves to be celebrated in that way.. The ‘Humble at Home’ boxes were a lockdown highlight, the Read More
‘Beautiful’. The Humble Onion’s salted focaccia, the taut, fragile bronze breaking apart for its airy crumb to be dredged through herby, grassy oil and its thick, sweet plug of balsamic. ‘Just…beautiful.’ A rolled lamb breast which combines a light crust with the wanton wobble of rich fat, a scattering of little cubes of pickled cucumber, Read More
I don’t like people telling me what to have for dinner. Anticipating the menu is half the fun, a few minutes of weighing the claims of each dish, making those decisions, playing them off against one another in your head. Delaying the pleasure: an act of culinary foreplay. A well written menu seduces. A ‘large Read More
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