It was probably Malai Thai’s set lunch set menu which put them on the map.
It was a revelation at the time, the idea of eating freshly stir-fried Thai food- off a plate, too- at a price (£6.99 with a drink at first, though it crept upwards as hospitality challenges mounted) which typically means a cardboard tray or a cellophane-wrapped mediocrity in Cardiff city centre.
The first review (you can read that here, if you really have nothing better to do) certainly struck a chord with many, although in truth it was very easy to champion a minuscule independent on city centre real estate.
Keen pricing, alongside the obvious David and Goliath narrative, made it a cult favourite.
Make no mistake: many feared for its survival when London-based Thai chain Busaba moved in a few metres from its front door, bringing deep pockets for ‘invitation’ evenings and the inevitable overheated reviews which cluster like flies on spoiled meat.
And yet: Malai Thai saw them off. Instagram-friendly Giggling Squid and The Ivy Asia are moments away in The Hayes, although the lack of flounce for those essential peace sign selfies and a photogenic floor (no, really, some people actually care about this bullshit) doesn’t seem to have harmed the Tiny Thai That Could.
And now, Malai Thai is no more.
Quietly, Basil and Curry Thai Kitchen stands there now, but don’t fret. The site may have new owners and a new name, and have undergone a facelift and a little internal remodelling, there’s one happy and crucial constant: Malai Thai’s chef remains.
As a result, there’s a strong sense of Basil and Curry picking up where Malai left off. Much of the menu will be familiar, and there’s still an eye catching set lunch menu (available Monday to Friday, 1130 to 130) which reflects how times have changed since the original’s debut: costs spiral, and now you’ll pay £9.99.
It offers far more choice now, though. The three available copies of the menu- that’ll need changing- detail three sections: curry, stir fries, noodles, and each is available with your pick of chicken, pork or tofu. That means a rare breadth of choice for vegetarians, with fifteen dishes to choose from.
Well-spiced minced fish cakes, lightly battered, are hoovered up; deep-fried chicken wings are dependably good, crisp and just begging to be gnawed while you wait.
Curries- red, green, massamam, panang and madras (this last an exception, and only available as beef) are all served with jasmine rice. It is a substantial lunch, the green curry an insistently-spiced mixture of vegetables which retain their snap, and chicken which manages to sidestep the pappiness which can be the downfall of many at this price.
A hearty plate of rice- a mix of tomatoes, broccoli, carrots and spring onions with beaten-out pork fillet- bears that unmistakable and satisfying tang of the wok. It’s compelling stuff.
Despire the facelift it this tiny room is functional rather than luxurious, but that adds to its charm, i think. It’s about food not fripperies: no one is coming here because they’re looking for ‘the aesthetic’ for their Instagram grid, which is fine by me.
Both are hefty servings for a lunch. There’s no tamarind duck (pbed makham) on my return visit, but yum nue (sic) salad is an capable stand-in. ‘It’s spicy’, chef warns the (possibly foolhardy) only non-Asian diner, and the requested ‘home strength’ is an aromatic, lively thing, the slivers of beef, cucumber and raw onion laced with a potent lime juice, fish sauce and red chilli dressing.
More big brands are due to arrive in Cardiff in the next six months. Some will bring attractive options to the city, a few I’m excited about. Most will offer no improvement on what we already have but will draw the crowds nonetheless. All well and good: that’s the way of things.
Yet this remains a city centre gem worth celebrating. If you enjoyed Malai Thai, you’ll find little has changed on the plate in front of you. And if not, here’s a gentle reminder: don’t neglect the minnows. After all, that’s where the soul of our city’s food is.
33 Caroline St, Cardiff CF10 1FF
MONDAY – THURSDAY
12.00-15.30 and 17:00-22.00
FRIDAY & SATURDAY
12.00-22.00
SUNDAY & BANK HOLIDAY
12.00-21.00
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This blog is a very simple thing.
I won’t try to sell you any hand lotion, exercise programmes, coffee syrups or Patagonian nose flutes. You won’t find tips on dating, ‘wellness’ or yoga mats.
I write because I love it (and food, as indicated by my increasing girth). Greed happens to be my Deadly Sin of choice, but at least it is never shy of providing me with subject matter.
A simple thing, then: all you get is me wittering on semi-coherently about places I’ve eaten at; hence a ‘restaurant blog’ rather than a ‘food blog’, although there are a few recipes scattered throughout.
From mezze to Michelin ‘fine dining’ and all points in between.
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