‘Goldilocks’ restaurants are rare enough and should be celebrated, so I’m amazed I haven’t written about this place until now. The Old Custom House has long been one of those rare places where you know everything will be ‘just right’. The welcome, the atmosphere, the surroundings, the service, the cooking. Just right. I’ve had many Read More
Perhaps it’s the tucked-away location on Kings Road, but La Cuina is very much one of those ‘if you know, you know’ places: it doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Founder Montserrat Prat has made nothing less than a cosy little Catalan-influenced nook in Pontcanna, one which does what it does consistently well. An obvious Read More
Pandemic on the streets of Canton, pandemic on the streets of Riverside: but comfort food is here to help us through. Milkwood’s change of direction in response to 2020’s ApocaGeddon is not only admirable but has been more marked than most: so let’s celebrate one of our true beacons, because few locally have pirouetted as Read More
This won’t be a Top 40 style rundown of favorite dishes in this oddest of years, or even my favourite restaurants. We all know what’s happened and the challenges that poses for restaurants and the people who work in them, so let’s skip to the good stuff. Instead, let’s highlight some good local food you Read More
‘I always recommend this fried chicken and everyone loves it!’ says my server, in this, perhaps the least ‘City Road’ venue on City Road. You know what comes next, don’t you? A full-blooded, studs-first dismantling of the menu and the place. It’s a chain after all, and a rapidly-expanding one. That’s not the sort of Read More
Here’s a prediction, a happy one in this chaotic, miserable year: you’re going to hear more and more people telling you how good the burgers at Ansh are. Ansh is Welsh through and through. Not just in name (‘Bite’), but the inspiration for each burger writ large. That sense of regional identity is explicit, from Read More