Mint & Mustard, Penarth

The chicken tikka was a world away from the unnaturally scarlet ones at your local Friday night tandoori, in size (an entire boned-out thigh) and flavour and texture. A single prawn, spiced and butterflied and lightly battered, completed the trio. These latter portions featured the kind of subtle, builds-in-waves spicing common to all the best Keralan food in the city.

Some lightly buttered naan breads were stuffed with lamb- not doughy, but thin light layers sandwiching the meat. The interest-piquing ‘Bullet Naan’ is apparently for those who crave a hefty chilli uppercut: being wise/old/cautious (delete as appropriate) enough to avoid such shenanigans, I refrained.

A creamy dhal was a lovely thing, its gently warming cumin tones being instantly moreish.

There’s no way I can make a bowl of curry look pretty in these pictures, but the flavours more than made up for it. A thickly-sauced Lamb Chettinad had the sort of heat that creeps up on you and lingers without ever becoming overpowering. If there’s a lamb curry on the menu, it’ll inevitably make its way into my stomach, and the meat was beautiful- slow cooked until it fell apart with little persuasion.

The Dhaba prawn curry, the onion and tomato sauce as thick and rich as a minor member of the aristocracy, was another winner. The succession of dishes, all more than hitting the spot, was making for a spankingly good evening.

An impressive menu, then, impressively executed. It also brings something Penarth needs, in a prime location, and it has obviously begun well. On a Tuesday night the place was full. Service is impeccable. Yes, I know we were there as guests, and it’s easy to be cynical about these things, so you develop antennae for this stuff, and it was obvious all tables received the same level of quiet but warm and attentive care.

Given Chef’s Mohammed’s background, it’ll be fascinating to see if this branch of the M&M empire develops its own distinctive menu, incorporating elements from his earlier stints in renowned kitchens. Time will tell: for now, Penarth has a quality addition to savour.

33-34 Windsor Terrace

Penarth

CF64 1AB

I was invited to Mint and Mustard and as such all food and drink was complimentary. However, this did not oblige me to write a positive review.