An unexpected hour to kill on the school run. I want big flavours, I want something with spice and aromatics. Where to eat when you want lunch with heft? “I’m not paying to do a bushtucker trial”, says my friend, and that’s from someone I’ve always thought of as a trencherman. Thus are the battle Read More
If Boney M have taught us anything about Tsarist Russia, it’s this: not only was Grigori Yefimovich Rasputin a lover of the Russian queen, but he was a “cat that really was gone”. Furthermore, as “Russia’s greatest love machine”, “to Moscow chicks he was such a lovely dear”. So far, so good. Not all shared Read More
You. Yes, you. You’re glossy of mane, resolute of purpose and firm of thigh; you know your béarnaise from your bolognese (or your Bovril, for that matter). You know that cutting thick tranches from a cauliflower doesn’t justify calling them ‘steaks’. You know that serving small portions of assorted world cuisines doesnt equal ‘tapas’. You Read More
Yawn. Not another burger bar, goes the conventional wisdom, although no-one seems to mither on when there are twelve humdrum Indian restaurants and fourteen identikit Chinese takeaways in the same postcode, let alone the proliferation of pizzas. A new burger place seems to rouse the ire, somehow. A burger joint with a new angle is Read More
Yes, I know I don’t post much home cooking stuff on this thing. And yes, I’m conscious of the fact the pun in the title filches the name of the now-closed place on Baldwin St in Bristol. But I’ve been borderline obsessed with gua bao since meeting them at KERB in 2013- specifically, the tiny-but-punching-way-above-its-weight Read More
Wally’s is a Cardiff fixture, a tradition. More than that, it’s a symbol of what can be great about Britain. That might seem a grand claim. Bear with me. The facts of the eponymous founder’s life are well known; how his father Ignatz, seeing the dark threat of fascism- and specifically the spectre of a violent, institutionalised Read More
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