If there’s a thread running through the orders I’ve made for national delivery, it’s this: less an attempt to keep up with what’s ‘hot’, more a calculated attempt to recapture happy memories. Food as lockdown panacea. And by extension- because I scrawl my ideas on the back of this virtual fag packet- to suggest meals Read More
Is there any other dish where the chasm between between the poor and the exceptional is so stark? Perhaps. Over there, buckets of limp, disconcertingly cheap meat produced to minimum welfare standards. And over here, but going by the same name, memories of those scrawny, claggy disappointments are banished by the truly good stuff- that Read More
“Characterised by free indulgence in sensual pleasures” they say. An enviable epitaph one day, hopefully, but more immediately the manifesto of Rugby and Hemel Hempstead burger specialists Libertine. Just banish all appetite-tainting thoughts of walking petri dish Pete Doherty. Libertine have been on my radar for a while thanks to the infectious enthusiasm of one Read More
As I started cooking this Wadadli menu, it started to snow: and if that sounds like the sort of achingly clumsy device the worst sort of arsehole might contrive in this context, you’ll have to indulge me as we press on together. Because if you’re finding yourself kicking against the pricks of chill winds and Read More
If the devil is in the details, someone should probably check Leyli Homayoonfar for horns and cloven hooves. I first fell for her food at her Leyli Joon & Co Grangetown supper club: a true family business. She took her Bab Haus to Sticky Fingers for its purple patch, a time we will likely one Read More
At some point over the last few years, Antonio Simone obviously sat down and thought about chips. Not in the way we all do in the odd lull, when you get that craving for the tang of salt and vinegar and the little puff of steam as you unwrap them because it’s cold and you Read More
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