Ah. ‘Chain’. The ‘c’ word. After my unenthusiastic review of The Coconut Tree, a few took issue with my description of them as ‘a chain’ and all the dilution of aims and standards that often involves. They’re not materially different from our own Bar 44, they reasoned: a similar number of branches from small beginnings, Read More
Free food is great, isn’t it? This isn’t another jaundiced glare at the ‘Ooooh I love your food, can I have £200-worth free for me and my seven best mates please, and we’ll absolutely guarantee some lovely Insta stories?’ subculture of blogging. Like it or not, that is the ecosystem we live in: but perhaps Read More
Disclosure: I didn’t pay for either of my visits here. The first was at their launch event, when I went as another blogger’s guest; the second was at a friend’s invitation. The Coconut Tree didn’t know who I was, although you may argue that our ‘invitees only’ table at the opening night would presumably guarantee Read More
Grady Atkins’ Paysan residency at Canton’s Bloc Coffee has been a big hit this summer. Former head chef at Le Gallois, (late Arbenning, now Heaney’s) and named in interviews as ‘mentor’ by the man the Guardian called ‘Britain’s Hottest Chef‘, Tomos ‘Brat’ Parry, he has vast experience of kitchens the world over. Friday nights have Read More
I’ve been wanting to try Leyli Joon’s cooking for a good while now, a situation only heightened by m’colleague Soliciting Flavours’ love letter to his December meal last year, all wrapped up in a righteous grumble about how Christmas meals out typically offer little of interest. (I couldn’t help but envy him: working in education, Read More
Look deep into the Parka… There are many things in here, things you could never dream of. – Like what? – Rubies. -l’ve dreamed of rubies. …Lesbian ham..? [The Mighty Boosh, ‘Tundra’] There are some words which don’t belong together. Or at least, not until someone welds them together in some inspired culinary cut-and-shut and Read More