Socotra: a legendarily beautiful island off the coast of Yemen. Also: a restaurant on City Road, Cardiff. In Sanskrit it means ‘island of blessing’, which I suppose applies to both areas, if you tilt your head and squint a bit. Perhaps. The island is famous for its ‘dragon blood’ tree, which grows nowhere else on Read More
‘Welcome, brother’ and ‘Anything else, brother?” are lovely ways to bookend a meal, aren’t they? You’ll find kingdom of Sheba- known to regulars as ‘Taste’- on Bute Street. To get there from the city centre means to experience one of the city’s most fascinating transitions. Stand at the staute of John Crichton-Stuart, Second Marquess of Bute, Read More
If you like lamb, have number 16, he says, grinning. That’s what everyone likes first time they come here. Haneed lamb it is, then. Unsurprisingly for a local Yemeni menu, meat dominates and lamb in particular. Some names are faniliar, others less so: so you can have it minced with tomatoes and onions, as soughar Read More
The South Kitchen is hiding in plain sight on Broadway. It probably doesnt look like your idea of a restaurant. It is easy to miss- I have passed it on foot so many times, and sometimes the front looks shuttered when the side entrance is open. But it’s certainly time you knew about it. The Read More
Open for just over a month as I write this, Clare Road’s Al-Madina is another unadorned, uncomplicated Grangetown find. It’s not just the plastic sheet-covered tables and it-would-be-an-upgrade-to-call-it-bare- bones decor: there’s no social media, no Google listing yet, no invitation evenings with prescribed hashtags and 13 identical captions. How utterly refreshing. The bilingual menu- Arabic Read More
After dinner at Hadramowt, I went back for lunch the next day. I find it useful to visit a restaurant twice if I’m going to write about it: that might not be what everyone does, but it seems fair. It’s less about being the first to get my hot take online, desperate for those all- Read More
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