I first ate at Mesen in mid-June this year, a few weeks before it opened, in one of those sessions you’re (well, I’m) invited in to try the menu and give some pre-launch feedback. It’s not always as much fun as it sounds: try telling the owner and chef- usually, sitting opposite as you eat- Read More
Google has Cathays’ Mini Kitchen as part of Fortune House a couple of doors away. Ignore that: it isn’t, and the menu is a world away from chicken balls, pork chow mein and special fried rice topped with scarlet-sauced sliced meat: Chinese food through a British filter. This is something else altogether. Much of the Read More
Perhaps this is less a review than a reminder. After all, Bar 44’s reputation is increasingly well known across Britain, let alone Cardiff, so unless you’ve been living in a bunker (or Bridgend) you probably already know. We are here for the new lunch deal, which runs on Thursday and Friday in Westgate St, and Read More
I once stood in a car park waiting for friends from Bristol to join me at The Humble Onion. On a dark mizzly Thursday night, I watched them walk past the turn a couple of times. It was an apt image for Antonio Simone’s cooking: simultaneously good enough to merit the best part of a Read More
I’m not in a good mood by the time I arrive at Hiraeth Kitchen. Any balm dispensed by the bus ride from Cardiff- a timely reminder of just how beautiful the Vale can be- is lost when I try to find a taxi from Cowbridge. Apparently the Gordian knot, Fermat’s Last Theorem and the continuing Read More
I’ll always have a soft spot for Charles St. I had one of the most romantic meals of my life there, one of those unplanned post-gig late-night styrofoam boxes of noodles under a starry sky, where she nestles her head into your chest and softly sighs and you’re both stupidly, uncomplicatedly happy as possibilities bloom. Read More
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