Ox cheek pie. Duck liver parfait. Locally-caught plaice, roasted whole and served with cider butter sauce. Oysters, three ways. Cullen skink. Scallops. Ribeye and bone marrow. Chips cooked in beef dripping. Goose. Fish pie. Yes, Booh, you have my attention. I’m on the train out of Charing Cross, and already smitten with Booh’s menu, when Read More
It’s the lamb which makes you sit back with a happy sigh. That sultry tangle of braised shoulder, irreproachably tender, is aromatic. Sumptuous. It tells you you’re in the right place, at the right time, with the right order. It is, by any criteria worth using, an absolute minx of a thing. But then so Read More
There is an easygoing, lived-in feeling to The Little Bulgaria, this small café on Queen’s Road. It’s the jar of lollipops on the counter, next to the wine rack. You see it in the cushions in the bold white, green and red bands of the Bulgarian tricolour. It’s the small rural scenes hanging on the Read More
It is a beautiful evening for a walk down to dinner. Coquina (styled with a small ‘c’) is easy to spot from the top of Hastings’ West Hill, near the foot of the East, and next to the darkly looming Net Shops on Rock-a-Nore Road. The bright, welcoming space they have taken upstairs in art Read More
I seem to spend my time in Hastings in little rooms eating lovely things. There are worse ways to spend your life, I suppose, and here’s the latest: the twice-weekly Sumisu Ramen popup from husband and wife team James and Ai. The town library, the Grade II-listed Brassey Institute, seems to looms over Trinity Street Read More
Well, Lury is lovely. I suppose I’ve ruined it now, haven’t I? That’s not how these things are supposed to work. You’re supposed to grit your teeth for a trudge through every bite of the ten courses and hope you still have the will to live when I arrive at a verdict, some stab at Read More
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