A wasted lunchtime trip to a new place- here’s an idea, chaps, update your opening hours online- on a warm late May day brings me to City Road, with no fixed plans of where to eat. Some window-shopping for my stomach, then, and Castello’s menu is instantly appealing. Besides, is there a better way to Read More
I love watching a chef work the tandoor. It’s something about the calm, economical movements, I think: the minimal fuss. You appreciate their efficiency, especially knowing, from limited experience, how ferociously hot those ovens are; and how reaching in and slapping the dough-laden gaddi ‘pillow’ against the sides- and getting it to stick- is harder Read More
After dinner at Hadramowt, I went back for lunch the next day. I find it useful to visit a restaurant twice if I’m going to write about it: that might not be what everyone does, but it seems fair. It’s less about being the first to get my hot take online, desperate for those all- Read More
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