If you wanted a glimmer of light for restaurants right now, here’s one: it’s been heartening to see the way so many businesses have adapted and emerged offering something even more fascinating, more exciting. Right in the teeth of the gale they are re-energised, refocused. Take a look at the pared-back beauty of the new Read More
Mattancherry stands out on Canton’s lovably scuffed drag. I’m unsure what the technical term for the dominant blue here is- cerulean perhaps?- but it’s the bike mounted above the door which draws the eye. Inside it’s all weathered desks on wooden floorboards, metal chairs, Bollywood Film posters. It will be a familiar look to many. Read More
So Good, opposite Mina and Pim’s on Crwys Road in Cardiff, isn’t your run of the mill Cantonese adapted to undemanding British tastes. The spicing is bolder, the menu clearly with an eye on the Chinese diners who make up the rest of the guests when I visit. The fallback term for this food is Read More
‘Beautiful’. The Humble Onion’s salted focaccia, the taut, fragile bronze breaking apart for its airy crumb to be dredged through herby, grassy oil and its thick, sweet plug of balsamic. ‘Just…beautiful.’ A rolled lamb breast which combines a light crust with the wanton wobble of rich fat, a scattering of little cubes of pickled cucumber, Read More
It’s a great name, no? Instantly evocative of the Stones’ infamous 1971 classic- founding member Bill Wyman has a tourist trap burgers’n’ wings joint with the same name in Kensington- it’s certainly digits to the fore: there’s hardly a dish here you won’t end up messy with. Anything which works on both levels and has Read More
The language of offal is peculiar. Gutsy, hearty, plucky, ballsy: we assign moral qualities to offal, positive ones. Eating the stuff, though? That’s much more divisive. Even inveterate meat eaters might greet the phrase ‘edible viscera’ with the same glee you’d reserve for ‘New on Channel 5- Celebrity Air Traffic Controllers with Joey Essex!’ Many Read More
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