Here’s my Pasture hot take: the most interesting bits of their steakhouse menu are on the peripheries. Charcoal-roasted cabbage with bacon butter, caramel pork belly, the ubiquitous short rib croquettes with gochujang. Their small plates-only opening next door should bode well, then. It’s certainly an intriguing menu. Koobideh for example: a rarity outside Persian-run menus Read More
‘Welcome, brother’ and ‘Anything else, brother?” are lovely ways to bookend a meal, aren’t they? You’ll find kingdom of Sheba- known to regulars as ‘Taste’- on Bute Street. To get there from the city centre means to experience one of the city’s most fascinating transitions. Stand at the staute of John Crichton-Stuart, Second Marquess of Bute, Read More
For those who pride themselves on the finer points of Cardiffian chicken arcana, Mowlana has long been a name to reckon with. The name, perhaps. Since 2013 in fact. Their delayed post-pandemic reopening (for refurbishment) brought more panicked update queries to my inbox than any other Cardiff restaurant. In short, it’s good to see it Read More
Some subjects are guaranteed to provoke a thunderous eye roll in any food discussion right now. Instagrammers touting themselves for ‘collabs’ before they’ve proved they have an opinion worth a damn?Always a front runner. The perceived dubious use of crowdfunding? Certainly. Claims of ‘authenticity’? That’s a slippery beast at the best of times, a loaded Read More
If you like lamb, have number 16, he says, grinning. That’s what everyone likes first time they come here. Haneed lamb it is, then. Unsurprisingly for a local Yemeni menu, meat dominates and lamb in particular. Some names are faniliar, others less so: so you can have it minced with tomatoes and onions, as soughar Read More
I’ve come at the wrong time, haven’t I? It’s a bright, cold day, the light filling the room those huge windows. Lovely if you’re the kind of inveterate arsehole who insists on photographing their dinner, mind. And yet…in my head, the default Nook look is seeing the place lit like a picture on an autumn Read More
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